Cerne Abbas Blog

St. Augustine's Well - Cerne Abbas

Cerne Abbas

The Middle Smiths accompanied us on a trip to Cerne Abbas. I was interested to see the Benedictine Abbey and the old church in the centre of this small Dorset village. Also has the famous Giant Chalk Figure with an emphasis placed on his erect manhood. It is said to be a symbol of fertility, and young couples will walk to the figure and touch it, in the hopes of having a child.

Meaning and Origins 

• Cerne: Thought to be derived from the Celtic god Cernunnos (meaning "horn" or "antler") or the Old English cern for the local river, sometimes interpreted as "stony stream".

• Abbas: From the Latin term for "abbot" or "abbacy", indicating the village's history as a monastery town, specifically the Benedictine Abbey founded in 987 AD. 

We met the Middle Smiths at The Royal Oak, Claudia was enjoying a half pint of cider, and Gary was testing the local ale. After a while, we made our way to the church. Opposite the church was a very old group of terrace houses, not sure if there are people still living in them, looks about to collapse. I have a feeling they were the accommodation for the people who worked at the Abbey, but that is only a feeling. Doing some research, I was mildly correct.

Abbey Street is believed to have been built around 1400 as workshops and ancillary buildings for the Abbey. The timber-framed houses are rare survivals in Dorset from medieval times. Of particular interest is the Pitchmarket; it is where farmers would pitch their corn sacks on market days for purchasers’ inspection

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St Mary’s Church has a fair amount of history, but putting that aside, it is a beautiful building. The church literature describes it well. As I am fond of history and many churches are steeped in history, thanks to Henry XIII and his escapades, we have churches that have been destroyed and then rebuilt over the centuries. St. Mary’s is one such example.

St. Mary's Church is a beautiful 13th-century church with stunning architecture, historic artifacts, medieval wall paintings and an ancient font.

After the church, we made our way to the Abbey, well, it is the ruins of an abbey with a new development of apartments where the outbuilding once stood. Very in keeping with the ruins and strangely not out of place. Not sure if I liked them, would I live there, not likely.

Claudia and I decided to visit the ruins for two reasons: I was more interested in seeing the Abbey, and Claudia is just beginning to walk without walking aids. She recently had a spinal operation and has made a good recovery. It has taken a while, first the wheelchair, then the walking frame, now she has to be mindful not to walk too far. Susan, Gary and Alex decided to walk to St. Augustine's Well: a short walk through the cemetery and into a meadow, traditionally believed to be formed by St. Augustine.

The Abbey dates back to 987, and is featured in the Doomsday Book. 

The first authentic account of the ‘Manor’ of Cerne Abbas is from the Domesday Book of 1086, in which is recorded that there was arable land for 20 ploughs (each drawn by an eight-ox team), a mill and extensive woodland.  The population was stated as 26 villagers and 32 smallholders.

Cerne Abbey was a monastery founded by Aethelmaer the Stout in Dorset, significantly influencing the development of Cerne Abbas village. It was a major religious house, later plagued by scandal, that operated for over 500 years before being dissolved in 1539 by Henry VIII. That man again destroyed countless church buildings throughout England. Today, only ruins remain; they include the Abbot’s Porch and Guesthouse. Really worth a visit, and there are 3 pubs to get any refreshments after your sightseeing.

Life

Life and the folds of fate decide; it carries within its own secrets, its own power, its own incontrovertible decisions. Life does not appear to accept dictation, and so we seek to pin it down to enable it and assign to it weights and measures, and predicted likelihoods, but life would not submit; life knows best.

We missed a few turnings on the way to another church and found ourselves in Poundbury, King Charles’s modern village, not really affordable homes, but really tastefully done. We ended up in Buttermilk Square, where we stopped for coffee and a pastry, and then walked around the village. Claudia was amazed at the architecture. Gary spotted the pub. Susan took Alex into Sainsbury’s and bought him an ice cream, lucky lad after all the jollifications of the day, we decided that it’s time to go home. That was our day in Cerne Abbas and Poundbury, which is in Dorchester.

The Awakening Walk: Finding Magic in the Mundane

With Susan away in Australia, the morning routine has shifted. It’s just me, Jenson, and the quiet path behind the house leading toward the heath. Usually, 8:30 am is a functional window, post-coffee, pre-work, focused on the necessities of Jenson’s morning business. But today, the walk felt less like a chore and more like an awakening.

Jenson, at nine years old, remains a professional. His nose stays glued to the ground, though his eyes are always scanning for his nemesis: the squirrel. He’s spent nearly a decade perfecting the chase. I often wonder what would happen if he actually caught one; my money is on Jenson politely backing down.

While he was busy inspecting a particularly interesting scent, I found myself looking down too. There, nestled in the long grass, was a Purple Dead Nettle. Normally, I’d have walked right past it, but bending down to "clean up" after Jenson brought me eye-level with its soft purple flowers and light green leaves.

It’s strange how one flower can act as a lens. Suddenly, I wasn't just walking; I was seeing. The landscape, which a minute ago was just "green," erupted into shades and stories:

• The Lent Lily: I spotted a few Daffodils, also known as Lent Lilies, because their bloom (February to April) aligns with the Christian season. Speaking of Lent, I’ve given up Facebook and whisky. To my surprise, I haven’t missed either—the morning air is a much better stimulant.

• A Splash of Crimson: The Scarlet Firethorn berries were glowing in the morning sun. They are stunning but a reminder to keep Jenson close, as they can be mildly toxic if curiosity gets the better of him.

• The Hidden Gems: I noticed the Wood Spurge, a plant I’ve missed a thousand times before, with flowers that shift from light green to yellow. The Japanese Camellia took the prize for sheer vibrancy, while Greater Periwinkles hugged the fence lines like a secret.

As we headed back, I spotted a large, unattractive weed. I almost dismissed it, but decided to give it a second look. It was a Bitter Dock. My mother always told me that where there are nettles, there is dock weed nearby to soothe the sting. She was right.

It turns out that when you stop rushing to the destination, the path itself has a lot to say. Jenson got his walk, and I got a reminder that there’s an entire world of colour waiting—if you’re willing to look down.