My Family in Puglia 2

Ostuni - (The White City) Southern Italy (28th May/1st June 2023)

Sunday

The next morning, yep they do come around at quite a pace, with many sore heads and regrets maybe. We sadly had to move on from this idyllic bouquet hotel, to Ostuni, known as the White City, not sure why, as all the buildings are not white. The crowd had booked a villa just a little way from the town centre and initially looked very good. We are calling the Villa, Villa Matthew, he did the booking so we need to give praise where praise is due. Angela took to the experience with gusto, encouraging young Alex to practise his diving. He has a tendency to belly-flop and was coached by the family over the course of the next 4 days.

Our apartment address was 198 Corso Giuseppe Garibaldione, one of the main corso, road, heading out of the town. Lovely place to stay and the town centre is a five-minute walk. I was amazed and pleasantly surprised at the fact that all the children could speak Italian. Our bunch were just about managing their mother tongue. Clever children, those Italians and most spoke English. The one thing with Italians, they all talk very loud, maybe wax in their ears?

We got by with Ciao, Buongiorno, Grazie mille, Un espresso and duo espresso. Although in Gary’s case, it was duo Grappa. Coffee is a big thing in Italy, well, we got by.

The day after the wedding we were invited to a Villa, just outside Ostuni, somewhat of a rural setting, for a BBQ, and after several attempts at trying to find the place, we found Michael who lead us there. Seemed a little chaotic and no one seemed to be aware we had actually arrived.

Our host did spot us and came around to say hello and complain about the chaos and then proceeded to head off in search of a drink. We found a lovely spot next to the BBQ, not sure when they were intending to light it, but we sat down. After half an hour, the resilient Julia, went in search of something to drink, our hosts being predisposed to trying to figure out what was actually going on. This angel came back with her beer and wine and as were sat down nearest the BBQ, hoping to get a jump on the zombie-like creatures that were wandering around with very sore heads.

After some more wine and reminiscing over what we had encountered in our travels, we looked around and no one was in sight. They had moved to the Villa! I love the way I have reverted to the Italian way of calling a modest home in the countryside with a pool a villa.

Michael found us and offered us a burger, which we gratefully accepted. Peter and Julia polished theirs off quite smartly but being the cautious type, I took a tentative bite and discovered a slightly charred burger patty that was raw inside, thought it would be wise to give out a miss. I must admit, I did not think we were expected.

Robert and Lauren kindly gave us a lift home and on the journey I taught them how to change a flat tyre, all quite an experience. Lauren did master this noble art fairly swiftly, partly to get rid of her anxiety over the hire car excess and a willingness to learn, happily, I was on hand to guide her through her crisis. Robert, always competitive, followed suit. In no time at all we were back on the road. Just as well, as the roads are so narrow, no one could get past us. In all fairness, if any one of those Italians just as much thought of saying something, they would have been taken out by Robert and Lauren.

Monday

The next day dawned sunny and warm, it is Italy, we strolled into the village of Ostuni and found a coffee shop just off the parking area, you will know what I mean when you visit Ostuni. Really authentic Italian, and called the Pink Lady. Needless to say, Susan was not that impressed, no friendly service and even if her coffee was the best she had ever tasted it would never have been good enough. That will not be a place we will be tempted to frequent anytime in the future, our immediate future being 4 days.

The Middle Smiths picked us up just after 11 am, for a day on the beach at Marina Rosanna. Someone in their wisdom had found a beach which was free to swim in, those Italians think of everything, pay to swim. The boys and young girls were go-carting and sailing, leaving the more mature adult to enjoy some peace and quiet on an idiotic, Italian beach.

As you can see from the images I have uploaded, we were not disappointed. I must say we were honoured with the presence of Claudia frocking in the Adriatic Sea and enjoying it.

All that frolicking does tend to enhance your appetite and it was quite timely for the odd snack of lunch at the beach restaurant.

A table for 15 was asked requested, much to the delight of a quiet restaurant, this was a pattern for the rest of our travels.

Lunch on the beach at Marina Rosanna was an occasion not to be missed. Claudia, our tour guide and driver, was in top form and waving her arms about and giving instructions, they prepared a table for 15. Now what to eat, the menu was all in Italian and Claudia was off powdering her nose before the next encounter with an overcooked Italian restaurant owner, that girl did so well. Peter looked confused and decided to order a beer, Julia on the other hand had spotted the wine menu and was deciding on the best bottle available. Angela went along with any wine as long as they brought the bottle. Julia chose a suitable Merlot and a Chenin blanc to start with, excellent choice and without further ado, we started to enjoy this experience.

At this point I do need to recap, you all are wondering how is Peter there as he was going carting with the boys. Turns out the event was amazing but finished in time for Matt, Lauren, Robert and Peter to join us at the beach. Lauren had oil splats all over her neck and arms as she drove in their slipstream, waiting to overtake. Peter had caused a huge crash in his attempt to overtake some other lad and had gone on to finish 3rd, Lauren was courageous and on the last lap passed Michael and came first in the women’s race, that girl has Audi Power, or should that be 'Arona' power?

Lunch was a great medley of dishes, all heartily enjoyed and we all lingered over our coffees and dessert long into the afternoon. Needless to say, the sea offered us the opportunity to clear the wine haze and enjoy the coolness of that Adriatic water. How did we get home? Not sure but we did.

We all changed into something close to suitable and headed for the square in Ostuni for a much-needed dinner, swimming does give one an appetite. We chose a street restaurant with Colonna di Sant'Oronzo keeping an eye on the goings on and ordered a table for 15, that number again, it is something like herding cats, we enjoyed the moment when Claudia announced to the waiter we need a table for 15.

This time we decided it was time to sample some pasta, the Italian style pasta. After much deliberation until we discovered the English-translated version under the Italian. Game changer and I ordered Ravioli, not sure what the rest ordered but I was a happy bunny, full of flavour and filled with things from Italy. The wine went down a treat and Claudia was too soon instructing the crowd to follow her, as it was ice cream time. Again, I am not too sure who paid but thank you.

Tuesday

Susan and I found a coffee shop in the Park of Rembarance, a short walk from our apartment. We met the Middle Smiths in the square, they had already consumed vast quantities of food and needed to walk it off, we had a coffee and then we set off for a walk in the old city, passing the Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta. Quite small but the stonework was uplifting, I think. We did walk past the Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi. The old city is a warren of narrow cobbled streets, more walkways but those Italians did manage to drive up and down while we mere pedestrians pulled our tummies in to let them pass. Claudia was complaining about the steep pathways until she spotted a gelato shop, an ice cream shop for the English amongst us, not sure what it is in Tanzanian. Moods improved and it was browsing time in the towel shops for a gift for Lilly, Susan bought a beautiful towel with her name embroidered on it, so chic.

Gary and I nervously waited for the spending spree to stop, before making our way to another gelato shop that served coffee and grappa.

We were joining up with the Fay’s from Brompton Ave for a casual dinner and I must admit the wine was an attractive selling point.

We found a gelato shop just a few meters away and everyone was happy, everyone is the operative word as they did also have coffee. While we were waiting for our orders we were hailed by the Miles family, yep, that is Punch and Judy, names and places have been changed to protect the rich and famous. Michael Miles and his girlfriend were taking them around the streets of Ostuni, fancy that, meeting the Miles in Ostuni. They looked happy but Judy did not really want to leave us, my view is that she was bored and we seemed to be having too much fun, crazy lady and we all love her.

Gemma took charge and ordered a table for 15, that number again. This time it turns out we seemed to have lost 7 of our party. Lauren and Robert were having a romantic dinner by themselves and the rest were somewhere but that is their story. Robert and Lauren came by and said hello on their way to an expensive pizza, they did need time alone. Michael swept by with all their friends from home, lovely to see Steve and Lizzie, David and Charlotte, Will and Jade to mention just a few, all looking for a good time and they were determined enough to find it. We did enjoy the festivities and that continued for our meal. Food-wise, normal Italian cuisine with the odd pizza decorating some plates, I must admit being one of those. Food is a celebration in Italy and we were so over-celebrating that the humble pizza was, for me, the best choice at the time and place we found ourselves in. What the other had that comfortable evening, minus the crowds, is for the comments section, you know you want to.

Wednesday

Lauren Bell-Brown organised a wine and cheese tasting, at a farm in the rural parts of Ostuni. Very educational and we all know where baby cows come from and how milk is manufactured. Not sure where the ostriches fitted in or the stray dogs but such a good time. Started with our guide, Giuseppe, taking us to the room where Antonio, a cheese maker of 20 years showed us how they make Mozzarella and Burrata. We all tasted the fresh cheese and made the appropriate noises, all this done in a plastic apron and a plastic head covering. Looking at the images we took, I think Robert pulled it off, as the most distinguished there, on the day that is, I am practising for the photographer to capture my right angle.

Our guide Giuseppe did explain why this region is well known for the trulli-styled building.

Trullis, are traditional dry stone huts with a corbeled roof. Their style of construction is specific to the Itria Valley in the region of Puglia. They did have several on the farm, actually, this was originally a Masseria. The term Masseria is used for any large house owned by a wealthy landowner, in the bygone days or a monastery, all come complete with a small church.

Claudia shed a breath tear, at the farm dogs caged in the barn and our Canadian couple who were on the tour with us, mourned the passing of his straw hat which a gust of wind had taken it into the pig's pen. Our gallant guide did not know if the pigs were friendly, his grandmother's dog does not like him, so he was not about to go and get it. He did point out some rather big cows and said they made the calves, tricky that as they had giant testicles and look decidedly bullish, to the more knowledgeable among us. Claudia did mutter under her breath that cows with balls are actually bulls.

After seeing those huge dangled bits, the ladies did glance in our direction with, what one would construe as judgemental, maybe my imagination but Gary did look a little uncomfortable.

Onwards and upwards, we finally found ourselves back at the reception and a coach load of tourists filling the eating area, with the exception of two tables reserved for us to taste the cheese and hopefully, wine.

Lauren was a little worried, as she had planned the whole experience and for the price so far, it was underwhelming. Never fear Lauren, the cheese, fresh bread, sliced Italian meats and wine came in abundance, this was one of those, never to be forgotten time and we will always remember it. The Burrata was a hit with everyone and the mozzarella came a close 2nd. For those who do not know what Burrata is, well it is a fresh cheese, made in the traditional style of a mozzarella. Burrata is unique in its design, with an outer purse of mozzarella, filled with mozzarella curds and cream, giving it a decadently soft texture. That little farm where the bulls make the calves kept on giving such vital information.

Great day out and thank you Lauren for organising the visit, must remember to remind Robert, he owns me for the cheese event.

After the food and the local wine, we made our way to Villa Matthew in Ostuni for a BBQ and the leftover cheese and wine from the cheese tour. I did contribute with an enormous focaccia, bought for breakfast but enough to feed our crowd of travellers.

We did the cheese thing and then the bbq thing and said our goodbyes.

All good times have to come to an end and although we are saddened by the farewells, it was good to be so close for a short moment in time.